Melody:
I’ve finally realized that my experience out here rests on my attitude. Today, I
decided to tweak my daily expectations and to try to resist the pain of all this
pounding. I guess without realizing it, I had expected less work and more play. Each
day on the PCT presents more challenges that are impossible to predict. I can never
guess what will make us suffer on any given day … the sharp pointy rocks, the
unforgiving heat, the incessant flies? But then, I could never really foresee what
makes each day so incredible either.
Yesterday, we ran into Eric who had come all the way through from Mexico. He had the
pure look of a cross country runner, with short nylon shorts showing off his lean,
sinewy legs. And today we met our third thru-hiker who has come all the way through.
He had the look of the bounty hunter from Raising Arizona. Old English tattoos
across his belly which was poking out of his shirt with one button buttoned. He said
he started the trail in Mexico after a Cinco de Mayo party that left him hammered
and had lost 47 pounds, the last he checked. Everyone we have met is hiking for
different reasons and in different styles. Everyone has been kind, ambitious and
unique. I guess I got to thinking that they all must be going through a lot of pain
and struggle and they are also figuring out good ways of dealing with it all.
Yesterday, we stumbled onto a huge pile of Gatorades left by a guy from Sparks, NV.
His note indicated that he had done some long distance hiking and that he could
relate. He had even brought every flavor and expected to come pick up all the
empties. I know that Yosemite Sam character from this morning must have been so
happy to arrive at Gatorade heaven. He had had a few rough days lately.
Oh, we ran into Salt Lick’s eagle! I thought for sure it was going to swoop down and
steal my earrings.
Today, the hiking was great. We walked along a ridge in the hot sun with a reliable
cool breeze keeping us chill. We saw familiar mountains for the first time! Castle
Peak came into view and every time we rounded a ridge we saw another peak we’ve
climbed. We are camped out in a thawing meadow by a swollen creek – that we’ll
probably have to ford in the morning.
Tomorrow, we pull into north Lake Tahoe. Dana and Lauren will meet us either
tomorrow or Monday! It’ll be great to see familiar faces and we have a surprise for
them too. The next week or so, we’ll hike through familiar terrain. Should be a
different feeling.
melody
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
On day 16, we fought Old Boggy, the slushy, mucky, sinking ground that so recently
was buried by snow. Old Boggy is a worthy foe, so much so that Sati and I climbed
wayyyy up onto a ridge just to avoid it.
After rounding Castle Peak, we hiked down to Donner Pass. The familiar granite slabs
and boulders welcomed us to our old snowboarding haunts of Tahoe. Donner Lake popped
into view and I started feeling giddy, thinking about spending our hard earned extra
rest day in Tahoe with friends.
Hiking under interstate 80 is weird and so perfect. It’s half flooded with tipsy
rocks to step on so as not to fall into the murky oily freeway water below. Is that
a huge rusty chain? Why yes it is … and three of my next stepping stones are
perching on it, ready to teeter and plop me ankle deep. No fear, stand on that huge
hubcap! Ah, something level.
It was pretty fun, actually.
Then, after a strange mixup of pay phone calls, voicemails and unsuccessful thumbing
at Donner Ski Ranch, Dana swooped in and swept us off to her family’s cabin in Tahoe
Donner. LG was there too and we scarfed down a delicious feast of salmon, rice,
green beans and corn before showering and konking out … in a bed!
melody
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
Sleeping in late, munching on freshly baked goodies and trading stories we all
enjoyed a lazy morning. Dana had brought us pajamas and other clothes so we could do
our laundry.
Before we did anything else, I had to get a new hat, gloves, insoles, socks and
gaiters. After our errands, we wriggled into a spot on the packed beach at Donner
Lake and swam and played the afternoon away. When we got back to the house, Jacob
and Kim called. They were in Truckee on their way back from the playa. Sati and I
took Dana’s car down to meet them and catch up.
That night, Sati treated us all to a dinner at Jake’s on the Lake. Herb met us there
and we dined very well and laughed a lot. The fireworks were right over the lake in
front of the restaurant so we got a great show. A decadent rest day was pure bliss.
melody
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
Melody:
Dana and Lauren dropped us off at the trailhead at Donner Pass. The bonus rest day
served me so well. I hit the trail with new gel pads under the balls of my feet and
heels, new double layer smooth weave socks and only six more days until my
replacement shoes with Vibram soles meet me in South Lake Tahoe. I was re-energized
by our time with goods friends and was excited to travel through familiar ground.
Over the past three days, we have traveled through Sugarbowl, Squaw and Alpine.
Seeing the forests under the snow of these ski resorts was great. As we headed out
behind the resorts we entered the Granite Chief Wilderness. And granite it is!
Marmots dashed about the boulders as views of Lake Tahoe popped in and out around
the cliffs. A ptarmigan in summer plumage dashed under a small seedling as her
fledgelings took of in panicked flight ahead of us on the path.
The last two days have been long and burly hikes, both ending in spectacular sites.
Yesterday, we camped in the only flat spot for miles with a beautiful view of Lake
Tahoe to one side and the towering cliffs of Granite Chief to the other. Today, we
reached Desolation Wilderness and its playgrounds of granite slabs and isolated
lakes.
Tomorrow, we hike another 13 – 15 miles and meet up with Heather, Paul, Brad and
Barbara at Lake Lucille where we will spend our regularly scheduled rest day! We’ll
have to decide by the looks of it whether to climb or detour around Dick’s Pass.
Oh, and thank goodness we picked up our 10-point crampons. We’ve used them a lot
already on terrain that would have been nightmarish without them.
And quickly, on the food front …
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
On Day 21, Sati and I saw our first “wet” fords. We decided to take the alternate
route along the Rubicon River because we didn’t have our ice axes and we couldn’t
eyeball Dick’s Pass. Traversing steep, slushy slopes could be sketchy. The alternate
route included crossing the river four times.
The river crossings got increasingly hair-raising as the day went on. By afternoon,
we faced the final crossing. At the official crossing, it looked deep and wide.
Anywhere it wasn’t wide, it was rushing. So, I emptied my pockets, removed my chest
and waist straps and walked in. The water was up to my butt and it was going to get
deeper before it got shallower. So, I went to back to the bank to rethink it.
The water was coming straight off the snowy slopes.
We decided that I had to put my pack on my head and wade across again. So, back in I
went, pack on head. Thank goodness we’re at the end of a leg and my pack is pretty
light. When I got to the other bank, I was in up to my chest.
After all the fun-filled fords, we climbed up over Mosquito Pass and into the weird
landscape of Desolation Valley. Lake Aloha sat brilliantly blue under the white
mountainscape of the Crystal Range.
Walking to camp was quick and we arrived to find Heather, Paul, Brad and Eric ready
to feed us like I had not dared dream. Brad brought us an deep dish garlic and
artichoke heart pizza from Zachary’s! Then Heather and Paul made pecan crusted
chicken and a fresh spinach salad with candied pecans, cranberries and sugar snap
peas! Oh my, did we eat. I continue to be blown away by our friends’ thoughtfulness
and generosity. They are the greatest.
The other day, foiled by a surly, unbalanced stump our lunch was lost to the
campsite ground. Much to our sheer delight we remembered the delicious chocolate
bars that Megan Hug had sent along for us with Dana. They made two tired hikers pop
to life.
melody
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
We sipped coffee that Bob, our awesome hotel proprietor, had prepared for us out on
the hotel balcony. After a quick breakfast of granola and a stop at the post office
to send our bounce box on to Echo Lake we started walking up hwy 49 to the
trailhead. Within a block a man in front of the town library offered us a ride which
we excepted.
The day started uneventfully, it was hot and we had a lot of miles and vertical to
do. As we hiked along Haypress Creek and crossed it nm any a footbridge we wished we had time to stop and play in the water.
But on we went up the hot canyon wall. We passed a mischievous eagle we had be warned about by a northbound hiker. Unlike him
however, the eagle did not steal either my or Mel’s hat.
As the day wore on we reached Jackson Meadow reservoir and, for the first time, I
felt like we were getting close to Tahoe. We at salami, cheese and crackers beside a
creek and talked about being in North Lake for the 4th of July.
After lunch I was tired. I secretly wanted to call it a day early and camp at a
campground at the reservoir. Mel was tired too but somehow we convince each other that we should push on that last 4 miles.
It was a good thing we did. Not 1/2 mile later we came around a bend in the trail
and what was laid out there? A spread of about 100 gatorades in an assortment of
flavors. We the tasty drinks was a note that in short said the gatorade was a gift
rom a fellow long distance hiker who knew how nice it would be to have a gatorade in
the middle of a long days hike. It was so sweet. Mel and I shared an orange one.
The whole experience reenergized us and we made it up the trail to a beautiful crest
campsite with views of the Sierra Buttes.
After a quick meal of tofu chili we dehydrated ourselves (it was yummy) and a little
DaVinci Code we drifted off to sleep another night on the trail.
Sati
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
The day started wonderfully and would prove to stay that way despite the day’s
“challenges.” The sun was shining on our Sierra crest campsite. The buttes stood
majestic in the distance. I popped out of the tent, squinting in the morning
sunlight.
Before long we were off, hiking a glorious ridgetop section (my favorite). A stiff
breeze blew all morning which made the hiking conditions perfect. No matter how hard
I pushed I didn’t overheat.
By 11am we were eating Red Vines and getting ready to plunge into the first snow of
this leg. Things are different here. The snow line is prolly 7500 feet but the 8000
ft ridge tops are bare and summery but the valleys, the sun can penetrate as well
there so snow remains.
Well, actually with temps in the high 70s up here lately the valleys are melting
too. In the bottom of them are vast tracts of wet, muddy muck. Mel and I found
ourselves walking on snow to avoid the shoe eating goo. None the less, we both ended
up with brown sneakers before the day was over.
The route was very pleasant climbing to dry ridge tops at times and then plunging into
the wet valleys at others. All afternoon I could see Castle Peak on the horizon,
drawing ever nearer. The first sign of the familiar terrain ahead.
After one last beautiful ridgetop walk and a final plunge into the White Rock valley
we made camp along side a creek. I was nice to spend the late afternoon sunning
ourselves n a granite boulder and sipping whisky. A good day.
Sati
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
Our camp beside White Rock Creek was wet and cold in the morning. Beautiful? Yes,
but still, the tent was soaked with condensation in the morning. All of this made me
spring out of the tent within moments of opening my eyes.
I made breakfast in the chilly meadow while Mel packed up the tent. Before long we
were off. Off to figure out a way to cross our very swollen creek without soaking
our feet. About an hour later we were on the other side. From there it was snow and
boggy muck for the first half of the day. A whole lot of fun!
By afternoon we had managed the get in the vicinity of castle peak and the Peter
Grubb Hut. Familiar terrain at last. Now it really felt like we were in Tahoe. The
route from where we were led down into the round valley where the hut is. But from
high on Basin Mountain the rote that way looked boggy and the climb out of the
valley looked snowy. So, Mel and I got a bright idea. We would climb us the steep
slopes we were on, cross country and take a ridge trail that connect Basin Mountain to
Castle Peak. Then down the flank of castle peak we would go meeting back up with the
PCT.
It sounded like a good alt. route and the views were outstanding. But, It was long and
hard and steep. So steep in fact, that on the way down we were slipping all over the
place as were the many day hikers on the trail. It was butt slides for all.
Out of that little snafu and quite grateful we sped off toward Donner pass where
Dana and Lauren might possibly be waiting for us. The trail had widely spaced patchy
snow on it (90% trail 10% snow) so for the first time that day Mel and I could fly.
And we did, only stoping once to talk to a couple who had made it straight through the
High Sierra (they were the 4 and 5 people we had met to accomplish that feat).
At I80 we reached the infamous PCT tunnels that take you under the freeway. It was
an interesting experience. We passed through one tunnel that was flooded halfway with
freeway water. Fortunately there were a series of very unstable rocks and one very
stable hub cap that let us pass without dipping our feet.
Once out of that
tunnel were were standing in the median between directions of traffic. Quickly we
walked through the second, dry, tunnel and reached the trail tread on the south side of
I80. from here it was a speedy 4 miles (1 hour 15 min.) to Donner pass on old
highway 40. We popped out but no dana or lauren. We were an hour late and it was
possible that they were not going to make it this day so were headed over to Donner
ski ranch to give then a call.
From the dark strangely unlocked hallway inside Donner ski ranch lodge we called Dana
and got her cell voicemail. We decide that we would try to get a ride into Truckee
and call again from there. The ride thing wasn’t working to well so we called again
this time leaving the pay phone number on dana’s cell. About 20 min. later the phone
rang. It was dana, she was in Tahoe and headed up to pick us up.
Before long dana had wisked us off to her cabin. She cooked us a fantastic salmon
dinner and we did our laundry. Dana even brought us clothes to change into which
included bright yellow, silk like pajamas for me. Oh, the glory: we ate and drank
beer and told trail stories until bedtime.
Sati
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
Today we cashed in that extra rest day that we death marched for last leg. Mel and I
slept in until 11am in a bed, in clean clothes. It was glorious. When we did rise
dana already had breakfast waiting. It was kinda sick and twisted but she had
homemade trail mix bars. None the less they were scrumptious and very appreciated. I
drank coffee, which is a rare treat these days, while we formulated the plan for the
day. First, visit a couple of stores to replace lost and damaged gear (hat, gloves,
gaiters). Then head to Donner lake to chill and maybe rent a boat.
Our trip to the stores was fruitful and we got everything we needed save the
gaiters. after that it was off to the lake, the very, very crowded lake. Wooh, what
a shock the first beach we went to was sold out (beaches can sell out?). We realized
we were at the wrong beach for many reasons and head to the right one which was not
sold out. The girls swam but I was to overwhelmed to have any of it. But I was
content to just relax in the sand. We ate copious beachy food and soaked in the sun.
at about 6pm we headed home to get ready for our big 4th-o-july out.
A bunch of our friend just happened to be camping in the nevada desert this weekend
and now at 7pm they just happened to be going home via Tahoe. Somehow word got out
that we were in town and we ended us getting to see Jacob & Kim and later our friend
Herb.
By 8:15 we had made our reservation at Jake’s on the Lake to feast and watch the
fireworks that were to be fired right in front of their lake patio. Just after
ordering Herb strolled in, another unexpected treat. The food was delicious and the
drinks fine. At 9:30 we all went out on the patio watched the show. As usual for a
big fireworks show, very exciting. After dinner was had the most exciting thing of
all. A giant concoction called a hula pie. Macadamia nut ice cream with whipped cream
and fudge was in the shape of the biggest slice of pie you have ever seen. Now that
was a delicious end to a great rest day.
After dinner we headed home and crashed. Tomorrow its back on the trail and we
wanted to be rested.
Sati
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
Yesterday Dana and Lauren dropped us off at the Donner pass trailhead after a great
breakfast of egg things (my favorite) and coffee. We had a short 9 mile hike over
the familiar terrain between Sugar Bowl and Squaw Valley.
Today we hiked a mapped 14 miles that turned out to be closer to a 20. There were
switchback down and up and back down for almost 4000 vert. ft.
Yesterday we finished hiking by 4pm. Even though Hiking farther would have helped
us, the temptation to spend the afternoon lounging on the rocks got the best of us.
Today, at 4pm we were not halfway through our hike. There was snow everywhere. The
kind that makes routefinding impossible. By sunset we were racing for camp, hoping
to find somewhere flat before it got too dark to see.
Yesterday, a brook ran next to our camp. The water was delicious and easy to get.
Our camp was perched on a flat with a spectacular view of the mountains above middle
fork american river.
Today we arrived at camp with just enough light left to find or way down to a
rushing snow choked creek to get water. I held on to melody’s hand as she teetered
on the edge freezing her hands to get the water. Our camp was also perched on a flat
today. To the east there was a truly stunning view of lake Tahoe. To the west the
snowy Blackwood Canyon Headwall, equally spectacular.
Yesterday was a piece of cake. Today was our hardest day yet. Both were intense,
painful, and fun in there own ways. Tomorrow we head for desolation wilderness and
soon after a meet up with Heather, Paul, Brad and Barbara. we’ll see what happens
then.
Sati
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 14-22 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk3 ]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
A rhythm has come to us naturally here on the trail. With our adventures changing so
drastically from day to day, the little things I know I can count on are so
important.
Sati makes the tea and cooks a lot. I make up and take down our little homes.
Tea in the morning, tea in the afternoon.
Wake up at 7, hit the trail by nine.
I walk in front, Sati walks in back. Likewise, I am the Guinea pig for crossing
streams, snowfields, Old Boggy, whatever. But if I’m scared and I don’t dare to try
it, Sati will take the lead.
All our food is great!
Elevensies break around 11, lunch break around 1-2.
We keep track of the number of marmots we see.
No wet shoes before 10am unless we’re certain they’ll get wet often throughout the day.
I can be sure that the camp at the end of the day will be spectacular.
Some days, we find ourselves crossing steep, thin, sun-cupped snowfields over raging
streams, other days we’re chillin’ at camp by 2. Today, we took a detour in the heat
of the day to swim at Sunset Lake, yesterday we were dipping into Lower Lost Lake at
our campsite. I never know what is around the corner, but I guess if I did, it
wouldn’t be so amazing.
We are definitely in mountain lion country. Their foot prints are in the mud right
by our camp.
Up here, the lupines and thistle have turned white and the indian paintbrush has
turned pink yellow and orange.
Oh, and the new shoes are much better, but there is no escaping fire foot.
melody
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
Spectacular vistas unfold around every bend these days. The hike on Day 27 brought
us through magnificent canyons with massive juniper trees leaning on volcanic rock
towers. Today, we arrived back in granite lands again. The course grain granite
boulders glisten all around us. Whole mountain sides are made of pinnacles of pink
granite. We both feel very small here.
The creek crossings are getting interesting. With such scorching days, the snow is
melting fast. We come upon snowbanks with creeks flowing underneath them. This is
nothing new, but the chances of breaking through are increasing all the time. We got
to one creek crossing that seemed particularly sketchy. On Sati’s suggestion, I
tried stomping on the snow. A slab about 12 feet by five feet collapsed immediately.
Hello! Our current rule is, if the snow has holes all the way through, consider an
alternate route around. Sketchy.
The people on the trail are great. We’re meeting five to ten thru-hikers each day
now and it’s fun to hear their stories of peril and struggle on the trail that lies
ahead of us. Some great people hike this trail and everyone seems to be feeling good
about being through the high sierra and that the snow is definitely melting. The
characters are hilarious and I feel like part of a cartoon hearing bits of their
stories as we pass each other. A bunch of people mentioned getting to Vermillion
Valley Resort and the place had run out of food. An $8 rice pudding is just so sad.
Two guys were carrying huge loads of stuff that they were sponsored for. They’d
finally lightened their loads from 70 to about 40 lbs. They were super fun and are
starting a guestbook for people from this year’s pct crew to keep in touch. It’s an
interesting class because it’s so split up.
We planned for a rest day tomorrow at Boulder Lake, but it didn’t thrill us here, so
we’re pushing on tomorrow and just hiking five or six miles to the East Fork of the
Carson River. Hopefully, we’ll be swimming tomorrow afternoon.
Oh and Sati and I are now called The Salmon, for swimming against the flow.
melody
Wretched flies and mosquitoes continue to want
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
Is it possible?
So many wretched skeeters
on me at one time?
Thwap! on my forehead
Again a smack to my chest
Cicada drive by.
What’s up mosquitos?
Why aren’t you afraid of DEET
Like your northern kin?
From in the bug net
I perfect my best weapon;
The Slow Pinch Technique.
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
This morning, we packed up from “Boulder Lake” which should be known as “Murky Pond”
and hiked about seven miles up to the rushing, cascading East Fork Carson River. Our
campsite is unbelievably beautiful with a raging river waterfall to one side, a
mossy creek waterfall to the other. Our kitchen sits on a granite slab and the view
is of steep cliffs of rounded pinnacles. The trees grow out of cracks in the rocks.
It’s been a better rest day than we could have had down at old Murky Pond.
Today is our half way point. We did a little dance out here on the rocks. I know
that our most challenging terrain is still ahead of us, but I have a good feeling
about it all. The trail has a way of beating us down sometimes, but we’re good
partners for this crazy trip.
The thru-hikers we’re seeing now have hiked about 1000 miles so far. Some seem weary
and tired, others seem invigorated. It’s a tough year to go straight through from
Mexico to Canada. They’ve worked so hard to make it through the deep snows and fords
of the High Sierra. That section was so slow, that many of them won’t be able to
make it to Canada before the snow starts up in the Cascades. It’s hard for me to
imagine that where we started, in Chester, is only the half way point for them. I am
impressed with anyone who made it even this far this year!
melody
Photo editor’s note: all images of this leg can be found at http://guest.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4/
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
We left the lovely East Fork Carson River today, headed for Sonora Pass. We climbed
over quite a bit of snow, but it seemed easy since we had such a short approach.
Arriving to the parking lot hours early to meet Mardi, we decided to hitch down to
the Kennedy Meadows Pack Station to sort through our resupply packages. A bible
school student named Megan and then a middle aged rocker named Buck Ninety-nine
obliged us with rides.
At Kennedy Meadows (north), we found cowboys, family reunions, a girl with an “I
don’t like you … stop crying” t-shirt, and The Beer Snob Ross, a funny guy who is
also traveling south to Kennedy Meadows (south).
Soon, Mardi arrived! She and Tim pulled in with Freckles, fresh from the hospital in
Reno where she was sewn up after a mean attack by a couple of malamutes. They were
so worked from the weekend, but brought us to Mardi’s mom’s house in Sonora for the
night.
The house was beautiful with huge windows, an enormous gong and eastern design
elements throughout. Every detail was elegant and comforting. Mardi cooked up a
delicious meal of bacon-wrapped scallops, chèvre tortillini and lots of other
delectable treats. Even with all the dog trauma, Mardi wanted to treat us. We owe her
big!
Oh, and Freckles was in really good spirits. She’s a great little dog and seemed to
be recovering well.
melody
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
Today, we ran from a thunderstorm and mosquitos. Mardi and Tim left us once again at
Sonora Pass and we headed back down the trail. The climb was exposed and we picked
our way though scree and snow up to the ridge line. As we hiked along the ridge,
thunderheads began to gather just to our east.
The top was dotted with weird quartz bubbles. Of course, I filled my pocket with
rocks on the first day of this leg. Now, that is ultra-lightweight backpacking.
The clouds began to rumble in the distance and we scurried along toward the valley
and our escape. We went miles and miles without more than a moment’s rest and
finally descended into the trees. An old avalanche path was evident from scores of
trees ripped, roots and all from their places and scattered down the slope. That was
impressive.
On our way down the valley, we ran into a young guy coming up. Despite the scorching
heat, he wore a mosquito net, a long sleeve shirt and long pants. Since there were
no bugs at that elevation, I laughed it off to fear of sunlight.
Moments later, Sati and I made our acquaintance with the high sierra mosquito. These
bugs are true pests. They are serious about sucking blood and no 100% DEET is going
to get in their way. So, we kept on running all the way to camp. Thank goodness for
bug nets. Until now, I thought my backpacking wardrobe was ideal. Now, I know why all
those north-bounders have long sleeve, anti-bug shirts. Hopefully, I can pick one up
in Tuolumne Meadows.
On a strange and sad note … Sati and I just heard about a hiker who walked away
from his camp at Showers Lake and disappeared. As far as we know, he was an older
man traveling with a younger female. He went missing the day we left Showers Lake.
Since we run into almost all the thru-hikers except those who pass by while we’re
still asleep, we tried to remember if we’d met this man. We had passed by one couple
who may have been them, but we had gone off trail a ways and only waved from there.
Then, Sati and I remembered a strange thing. That day that we left Showers Lake, we
saw an older man coming toward us on the trail. At that point we still hadn’t seen
many people on the trail, so it was still exciting to run into people. We both saw
him, an older white man with a sun hat, tan button-down shirt opened and a white
shirt underneath. He was downhill from us in a clearing about 200 feet away. When we
cleared the trees, he just disappeared. We both were surprised and confused about
where he could have gone. We both said we had a weird feeling and I kept on looking
back up the trail once we passed the spot where we’d seen him. We decided that he
must have been going south, like us, and we had been mistaken, but I know neither of
us believed that. Anyway, when we heard about the disappearance, I felt like I had
seen a ghost.
melody
[Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4]
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
Other than sliding on our bums into a crystal clear creek again and again, all that
happened today was MORE MOSQUITOS THAN I’VE EVER SEEN. In one meadow, suddenly
thousands (yes, thousands) of them flew out of the mucky vegetation and we could
hear their high-pitched buzzing all around us.
We’re either in Yosemite or within a mile.
That is all.
melody
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Melody:
First off, let me say that the whole mosquito thing was never as bad as on day 32.
That night we camped along the creek, had a little fire and watched as the moon
turned the stones white and the water an inky black. Some meadows are buggy, but
nothing will compare to the skeeter nightmare that was the mile of Grace Meadow.
On day 33, we climbed up and down and up and down and up through the massive stone
canyons of Yosemite’s Hinterlands. The scale of the place is breath-taking.
At the top of Seavey Pass, we planned to make camp. When we got there, we met four
thru-hikers coming north. They were making excellent time, having left Campo at the
very end of May. Sati and I jumped into the little unnamed lake and the water was
deliciously cool and clear. Surprisingly, it was warm enough to swim around in. We
called to the other four and they jumped in too. As the sun dipped behind the
mountain top, we swam to the other side to meet its last rays. On every side, we
were surrounded by granite mountains, sheer on one side, rolly polly on most. The
spot became known to us as The Enchanted Dish. It is my favorite spot so far.
On day 34, we climbed in and out of canyons, running from thunder, finally to rest in
Matterhorn Canyon. Thunder hammered the canyon for a couple hours. It poured too
while Sati whipped up a McGuiverita for the show.
On Day 35, we realized that we had mixed up our days and that we would end up at the
Tuolumne Meadows post office on a Sunday. We were supposed to meet Blair and Mike
and Linda at California Falls on Saturday. We thought we could hike the 21 miles out
on Friday and if we could handle it, head back in to meet those guys after our
resupply.
We headed out for our biggest day yet and quickly got a view of Matterhorn Peak and
the Sawtooth Ridge. At about mile seven, as we crossed McCabe Creek, three guys on
the other side were very happy to see us. They had found another thru-hiker who had
pitched his tent on the trail and posted a note saying that he needed medical help.
He had gotten a rash over his whole body and his eyes were swollen shut. The three
north-bound hikers (who strangely, were all wearing yellow shirts) had moved his
tent into the shade and filtered two days worth of water for him. We talked to him
for a bit and he was calm but definitely needed medical help. He didn’t know what
had happened to him. He had started feeling bad the night before and started hiking
that morning, but was too weak to go on. So, we took his note with lots of
information and headed toward Tuolumne Meadows.
We made the 14 miles in five hours with no breaks except once to change my socks. We
told another hiker heading in to Glen Aulin what about the guy in case she found a
ranger first.
Hobbling into Tuolumne, Ranger Sally met us on the trail having gotten word a half
hour before radioed in from Glen Aulin. We gave statements, coordinates, our
impressions and ideas of where to land the helicopter. They dropped us off at the
lodge where we got a tent cabin for the night and crashed like we’ve never crashed
before.
melody
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
In the last couple days we have finally run into “the herd.” that is, all the thru
hikers that started in mexico and have come straight through the high sierra. Much
to our surprise, and that of the few fast folk ahead of the herd, there are not 10
to 15 people who have made it straight through. There is more like 30 to 40 of them.
I has been great fun to meet all these folks and chat with them. All different kinds
of good hearted people. Everything from the Swiss couple that were hungry and really
ready to get to south lake Tahoe to the endless stream of bearded hippy-looking guys
hiking alone or spread way out from there companions to the to guys doing a people
piece of hiking the PCT and shared with us the secret way to quench ice cream
craving on the trail everyone had there story and by ad large they were all good
ones. They were almost all in great sprits. Each one of them has expressed that the
high sierra was extremely beautiful and very hard.
We’ve talked to folks about gear, the trail, home towns, resupply towns, food, snow
(lots of talk about snow) etc. etc.. Its been really fun to see 5 to 10 new faces
everyday. Though, I think after today we might not see to many more.
It just goes to show that there are like minded people everywhere. Sometimes going
on a 700 mile (or 2650 mile) hike is how yo find them. Other times you can’t get
them to leave you alone.
Through all of this walkin’ and talkin’ melody and I have gotten our trail names
too! She’s Salmon #1, I’m Salmon #2. Collectively we are The Salmon!
Upstream and southbound OH!
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
Boulder Lake was not all it was cracked up to be. That’s the place we were planning
to take our rest day today at and where we camped at last night. The canyon was
stunning with shear granite sides. The fishing in the lake would have been good if
had had the energy to fish it. But, the lake was more of a pond, a buggy pond and
were were looking for inviting waters to rest at.
So, today we hiked. We decided to hike about half of the miles to sonora pass, about
6, an easy half day. This would take us to the east fork Carson River where we hoped
camping and non-stagnant water awaited. Also, to get out to sonora we have to go
over our first 10,000ft.+ pass so, reducing the miles that day will give us more
time in town (hopefully with Mardi).
The East Carson produced alright. As I type it s sunset I’m sitting in camp on a
medium sided bench 10 ft. from the rive and right on top of a 40ft. waterfall. The
granite lined white canyon of the carson is stretched out before me. Its walls, some
of the coolest looking granite cliffs I’ve ever seen. I can see peaks prolly back to
Markleeville. This is a truly special place.
The he here was relatively easy. We spent the afternoon lounging on a large granite
slab that doubles as are kitchen, washing clothes and selves (not easy in the
rushing 40 degree snowmelt) and listening to or latest audiobook, Half Asleep in
Frog Pajamas by Tom Robbins. It has been so relaxing. A much needed and deserved
break.
We are starting to cook up one of our favorite (and most involved, though not hard)
camp dinners, Pizza complete with from scratch crust. yummy!
Today at about 12:30pm was the halfway point of our trip. Another great reason t
celebrate so we did with the remainder of our tequila. Tomorrow its into sonora
pass, the Kennedy Meadows (north) pack station to pick up our resupply and hopefully
off for a night on the town with Mardi and crew. After that the High Sierra begins.
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
The air thick with there high buzzing
Smack, smack you little bastards take that
Back for more, eh? well have it again
I’ve killed so many of your kin folk
What do you think will happen to you
But you still come
Your think you’re winning but you can not
I will not let you even though I have retreated behind my olive green No-see-um netting
I can still deliver the blows
The blows that send you to mosquito never never land.
I will not surrender to your long proboscis no matter how many times you try
to stick it in me.
You attempts are infantile, juvenile
Provoked by a desire you
Can not understand.
A desire that will land you for the last time
Crushed by my hand.
Oh, vile beast of tiny winged flight come land on me
So I might kill you.
I may erect barriers to stop your evil urges
But my desire to crush you tiny body
Will never hide behind
Screen or chemical protection.
Mosquito, tonight you suck no more.
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
One common thread worked its way through today. Our friend the mosquito. Or friend
that is quite adept at over staying his welcome and inviting all his friends over
with out asking. Oh yes, the mosquito and his friends, thousands of them.
Actually there are two common threads for this day, the mosquito and DEET. 100%
DEET. The strongest money can by. DEET incase you haven’t heard is the legendary
mosquito repeller. It also dissolves many plastics and is a mild neurotoxin. Good
stuff, powerful, sure to have strange long term effects and we have, by necessity,
smeared it al over our bodies…Repeatedly.
Lesson of the day. High Sierra mosquitos, scratch that, Yosemite mosquito are the
most hardcore of the hard core. In the north , a few dots of DEET in strategic
places would keep the blood sucking brrrdzzz off all day. Here, if you want to keep
them off all exposed skin has to glisten with 100% Oil of O-DEET. That will keep you
safe for two hours tops.
We’re in Yosemite, yes. Very cool. Its beautiful, the high sierra rising all around
us. Granite spires, domes all surreal n their magnitude. It Yosemite it seems
everything is quite trained. Now, mind you we are no where near the Yosemite most
people know. Where I sit we are deep in the Yosemite wilderness days from Tuolumne
Meadows and even farther from the valley but even here the blasted mosquitos thing
DEET is a sauce. 100% deet.
Most panicky moment of the day: walking into a meadow and being engulfed in a swarm
of 1000s, yes 1000s of mosquitos. I’ve never sen a mosquito swarm before an hope I
never do again.
Tonight we build a fire which worked wonders to scare the little beasts away. Hopeful
tomorrow we will walk out of mosquito land. Hopefully, ha ha.
Sati
(who is missing much blood and flush with itchy spots)
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 24-36 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk4
——————————
Sent via PocketMail
Email Anywhere
www.pocketmail.com
Sati:
After a relaxing day on the East Carson River melody and I set sail for sonora pass.
In the process we would break the 10,000 ft. altitude for the first time on our
trip. Very excited ad a little nervous we set out. We decided to take a alt. route
over over Sonora peak called Saint Mary’s pass. The cross-country route was said to
be safer in times of significant snow. Since many a northbounder had told us of
copious snow above 10,000 feet we thought this would be best.
The route turned out to be fantastic. Good 30 deg snow climbing. Steep enough to be
exciting but forgiving enough to never be really scary or particularly dangerous. At
the top the view into the Emigrant Wilderness and the Yosemite Hinterlands beyond
was stunning.
Soon we were down at the pass. Mardi was supposed to meet us at 4pm but we had
arrived early at 2pm. So, we decided to try to get down to kennedy meadows pack
station to get our resupply packages. We left a note on the trailhead bulletin board
and started the quest for a ride.
After a long while a 20 something girl in a little car stopped and picked us up. She
was sweet as could be in that bible school kind of way. That’s where she was headed
too. A year abroad for college at a bible school in York, England.
In our amassment at being picked up by a real life bible school girl we drove right
passed the pack station. 4mi past it. Our driver offered to drive us back but she
had done enough. We decide to try and get another ride back up the road.
Again after a long while we did. This time with an, ahem, colorful man we’ll call
$1.99. Head was staying a the pack station so we had it made. Even his story about
his friend two dollar bill wouldn’t make us miss our stop.
The pack station was fairly nice. It had a decent store, restaurant that cabin for
rent on the bak of the Stanaslus River. We got our packages and some sodas and
started organizing our stuff for the next leg while we waited for Mardi.
Enter the Beer Snob. Another PCT hiker headed southbound with Mt. Whitney as his end
point. We all had some good conversation while shuffled food and gear. Finally
Mardi drove us the rode and greeted us with hugs and a big bottle of Lambeck. I’ve
be dying for a Lambeck. Woohoo. Mardi had brought Tim along too. Double Woohoo!
The five of us sat around for awhile drinking brews while Mel and I finished up with
our resupply. Then we bid farewell to the bear snob, sure to meet again at points
south and Mardi and tim wisked us away to Mardi’s folks place in sonora.
The house was amazing. Perched on a hill and really beautiful. We meet Mardi’s
parents briefly and before they left to go back to the bay. After that Mel and I
bathed in a jacuzzi tub while Mardi and tim cooked up quite a spread for dinner.
Scallops rapped in bacon, pasta, salad, bread, olives, wine and tiramisu for desert.
I was in town stop heaven. After dinner we finished to wine, told stories and then
drifted of to sleep in a real bed!
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 38-50 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk5
Sati:
Today we forded. Yes, we ford everyday but today we forded a creek that many
northbounder claimed to be a potential killer. Kerrick Creek.
The day started with as you may have guessed, a run from the mosquitos. Soon though
we reached higher ground and ate our 11z at the north rim of Subblefield Canyon.
Granite rose all rounded us as we sat perched on the high cliffs. Down in the canyon
the truth of how bad the fords would be roared through.
The decent was hot and knee jerking but fast enough. Full attention was on the
creek, it white water a noise. When we arrived at it we found what the guide book
called a volumous dangerous ford to be thigh deep and placid. You could swim in
there. The ford was not scary and felt quite good in the hot sun. The hike up the
other side of the canyon however did not.
This was the beginning of the PCT high sierra character of passes and valleys. In
other words days are spent climbing switchbacks to incredible views and then
descending switchbacks to incredible canyons.
From the top of the kerrick-stubblefield divide we plunge down in to the canyon the
held the ford, many had said to be the most dangerous on the whole trail. What did we
find. another placid thigh deep crossing. Our time was perfect as we had hoped and
hoped the high sierra streams had come down.
So up a again we went headed for Seavey pass and a “sparkling pond” that guidebook
promised superior swimming at. At the pass the land scape was both overwhelmingly
huge, magnificent and peaceful all at once. we made our way to the pond among granite
slabs and peaks topped with fluffy clouds everywhere. Once there we found a couple
of cool thru-hikers and fell into conversation. Soon two more northbound thru-hikers
showed up and the conversation widened. But we had on forgotten the promise of
diving rocks and good swims. I went to the edge, striped down and jumped in.
Expecting icy cold water (we were at almost 10,000ft) I braced but what felt was
warm and inviting. “it’s warm” I yelled as Melody looked on not sure if she believed
me. Soon she was in the water fully believing and we were paddling around in bliss.
This must have been contagious to our new friends because soon all for of them were
the water. Six of us swimming in the sky.
We all hopped out as the sun dipped below the peaks as we dried of thunder began to
rage in he distance. Soon the gave way to the most incredible alpine glow I have
ever seen. beneath the pink sky we set up camp and marveled at the enchanted place we
had found. The Enchanted Dish. Its not easy to get to. In fact it is really hard to
get to requiring multiple days and many 1000s of vert. ft. of climbing but if you do
it was leave you breathless.
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 38-50 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk5
Sati:
In the last few days Mel and I have climbed up and down canyon walls, hiked 21 miles
to get a PCTer a rescue and ate and chilled and ate in Tuolumne Meadows.
Matterhorn canyon:
This is a magical place. to me, it looks like yosemite valley or at least, it has the
magnitude of Yosemite valley but there is no access. Granite rises thousands of feet
everywhere but only a handful of trails get you there. Each one of then requiring a
long multi-day hike in.
Our trip in was no excepting. the route involves a multistep climb of 3000 vert.
ft.. Each time you reach a step you think t might be over and then in 1/2 mile or
so, up you go again.
At one of those steps is an amazing lake named Smedberg Lake. Its icy blue waters
made a brisk if not dramatic swim. The perfect mid morning refresher. Swimming almost
everyday is one of my favorite things these days.
Finally after the long climb to Benson Pass and a almost equally long descent we
reach Matterhorn canyon. From the pass down thunderstorms had been brewing. By the
time we got to the canyon it was raining and the thunder was getting closer. Mel and
it ate lunch under a tree and then pitched the tent. We crawled inside in the
growing electrical storm and listened to our audio book. about 2 hrs later the ran
stopped and I emerged to the most dramatic sunset. Fog was clinging to the valley
walls in pink poofs and a rainbow streaked the sky above the damp green ground.
Matterhorn creeks ran right behind our camp so I went to it and fished through the
sunset. We ate brook trout for dinner.
21 Mile Rescue:
We left Matterhorn canyon early knowing we had a long day ahead of us. We needed to
make Tuolumne Meadows that evening and it was 21 miles away. We had know idea however
what a long 21 miles it would be.
The day was normal until we reached Return Creek in Virginia Canyon. after our 11z we
forded return and then McCabe Creek. on the other side were 3 northbound PCTers that
looked very concerned. They told us that they had come upon a sounthbounder that had
had an allergic reaction to something and is eyes had swollen shut. He was unable to
hike and was requesting a rescue. The 3 had already pumped him some water and helped
him move his tent into the shade. Since we were headed to Tuolumne Meadows it would
make sense for us to go for the rescue. After talking to the guy for a few minutes
we decided we would do it, took a note he had written and set off. 6 hours of
non-stop hiking latter we finally ran into ranger Sally about 1/2 mile from Tuolumne
Meadows. We gave her all the information we had and she asked us a bunch of
questions about how to find him and his condition. All the while she was on the
radio with a base of operations. Finally, sally ran to get on the helicopter !
for the rescue and another ranger was sent to give us a ride anywhere in T. Meadows
we wanted to go.
Food was on our mind since we had eaten no lunch in our mad dash. A shower and bed
also sounded good. It turns out the one place open for those things was the Tuolumne
Meadows Lodge. There were a few problems though. First it was now 7pm and dinner is
only served until 8pm. Ok, that’s manageable but reservations are required, hummm.
Second problem, its the Tuolumne Meadows lodge, you had to make reservations last
year for a cabin there. Well its our only hope so we had you ranger driver drop us
there.
We walked into the maim lodge building to much hustle and bustle. Guests were going
to dinner or buying stuff from the small store. when our turn came at the desk we
asked about a cabin. Luck was shining on us that evening the women had just gotten
off the phone with a cancelation. Sheepishly she told us that the cabin had views
of the propane tanks and the bathrooms. She asked us if we’ed like to see it to
which me and I both said “we’ll take it!” Next dinner, again luck was on our side,
there was room for two at 8pm. Perfect just enough time for a shower and beer before
dinner.
Resting With the Crew:
After a delicious breakfast at the Tuolumne Lodge we headed over to the post office,
store and grill to get out resupply and eat more. Everything went smooth with the
resupply and we happily sent our ice axes home. While sitting out in front of
this hub of Tuolumne Meadows beer snob from Sonora Pass showed up. What a plea sent
surprise. We ate some ice cream and finished up with our resupply. Right as we were
getting ready to leave someone in a white truck pulled up ad yelled “hey, did you go
to high sierra music festival?” I turned a realized it was to trail builder that we
had talked to back around 5 lakes near lake Tahoe. What a trip. We chatted for a
while then headed off to get a space a the backpackers camp.
We set up at the camp and head back to the grill to have lunch and wait for Blair
who was going to meet us there at 5pm. We ate copious amounts of beef and bacon
until blair arrived. There were greetings and stories all around before we went back
to the backpackers camp wit blair.
That evening I caught a fish for dinner out of the Tuolumne river. To go with it
Blair brought us an amazing mozzarella basil salad and port AND chocolate. all
present had bought beers at the store so we ate and drank the night away laughing
and keeping the boy scouts next door up way past their bedtime.
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 38-50 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk5
Sati:
Due to the fact that I’m very behind in my journal writing this one’s going to read
like the 10 o’clock sports broadcast…
Lyell Canyon:
What a beautiful place. The Lyell fork of the Tuolumne river meanders down its lower
half. Mt. Lyell stands majestic at its head (Mt. Lyell is the highest peak in
yosemite). I wonder who Dana and Lyell were to both get peaks on forks of the
Tuolumne river named for them. I hope you were lovers or maybe rivals or something.
Anywho, the Lyell fork, the there is a fantastic if not ice cold swimming hole
there. Mel and I both jumped in and it took my breath away. Icy!
In other news….
Donoghue Pass:
Its the closest the PCT gets to Mt. Lyell and it gets pretty close. I’ve always
wanted to climb Mt. Lyell in the winter time so what a treat to see it for the
first time in person on the PCT. The whole upper cirque in mind blowing. Granite
everywhere and the headwaters of the Lyell for spread out in royal blue and pooling
into emerald green lakes.
From the pass the Ritter range came into view. I had to marvel once again at how
cool it is to see the whole Sierra mountain chain connected together.
Also…
The Weasel and the Mango:
Squealing like a very small pack of monkeys Jon and nick met us at Thousand Island
lake. Thousand Island lake is a crazy place all by itself with banner peak towering
over it and hundreds (maybe even a thousand) little granite island dotting its
waters. But, throw the weasel and and mango into the mix and whoa, lets just say it
was weird…In an good way.
We camped at badger lake and swam in its fantastically warm waters. There were great
diving slabs and the perfect cannonball roost (which I used repeatedly and
shamelessly). We swam the next morning too, though it was not nearly and warm. But
hey, any day that starts and ends with a swim is a good one to me.
On to…
Reds Meadow:
Weez, Mango, Mel and I hiked to Red’s Meadow together. Red’s is basically the same
place as Devils Postpile. But, do to some maneuver that I’m sure i reminiscent of L.A.
politics Red’s is not included in the Nat. Monument or wilderness so there are some
rather run down cabins, a store, cafe and car campground.
When the four of us go to red’s we beached ourselves in the store parking lot and
began the usual in town beer drink. I went off to find a bathroom and instead found
the Beer Snob. Woohoo, more fuel to the flame.
The five of us hung out drinking and eating. The mango-van was in effect and was
stocked with for food and libations. Real food and libations not Schrodinger’s
verity. After about an hour Elizabeth show up t meet us. More, more, more fuel to
the flame.
With one more trip to the store for ice cream and beer we were all of the the car
campground for the night. Great ting about the Red’s campground, Hot spring showers.
They are wonderful after you get over the fact that the stalls are something out of
a horror movie. Get pressure, all most more hot then you can stand, what more could
you ask for. Needless to say we all had one. Afterwords, we cooked up a feast of
different foods and talked and giggled the night away.
In the morning Mel and I got to take center stage while we did an annotated resupply.
Tips were shared. Photos transferred (eventually) and two fosters were bought for our
rest day at Iva Bell hot springs.
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 38-50 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk5
Sati:
Not to say the wonderful Weez isn’t usually right, often he his. But, our dear furry
friend does have a way of calling an awful lot of things the coolest or best ever.
This time he was so dead on, smack that bullseye with the back of your hand that I
might be moved to reinvestigate some of his other best evers that I might have
missed. Iva Bell Hot Springs s by far the best back country springs around. In fact
it has to be top 3 for best springs ever.
Melody and I had secured a sweet campsite above the highest 3 pools (of 5 that we
found. Oh, and a hot waterfall). The view was outrageous, the towering granite walls
of fish creek valley stretching to the horizon. From that little “base camp” we
soaked and soaked on a little tour of the springs.
In the morning we had a soak in our high pool and watched the sunlight creek over the
valley. By noon a series of thunderstorms were on their way in. A Boon for hot
springing it rained on us while we soaked in the lower 2 pools among tall grass and
Leopard Lilies. Fantastic!
We met three guys from san diego one of which was a science teacher (who’s not a
science teacher out here?). we swapped stores and they all made us feel real good
about our hiking accomplishments. At sunset we all had a soak in our high pool and
sipped single malt (thanks Jon) and peppermint schnapps. Sounds strange but it was
perfect for watching the sun disappear over a ridge and for ushering night again.
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 38-50 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk5
Sati:
Contrary to the suggestion seemingly presented in the title, this entry is not
another mosquito rant. I’ve achieved at least a nominal level of zen about the little
buggers. It’s this little flies now….Well that’s another story.
So, what’s been going on. Cascade valley was stunning. Fish creek flows through it
and pours over granite cascades over and over and over again. It’s interesting what
gets deemed a “creek” here in the southern sierra, some of them, fish creek
included, are as raging as any river I’ve seen. We stopped for a dip in an eddy just
before we left the valley. I went for the head dunk but melody got all the way in.
After Cascade valley we climbed up over the silver divide at silver pass. Fantastic!
High alpine lakes and towering granite peaks galore. Every time we go over a high
pass the trail turns into these cut granite steps. It’s incredible to think about the
work that went in to making them.
I also got to fulfill a great desire up on silver pass. Right before we reached the
pass we passed a beautiful stream. I knelt down and put my lips to it. What a sweet
drink straight from the earth. I was even more happy when melody followed suit.
After silver pass we camped at a large high alpine lake named aptly, Silver Pass
Lake. In the morning we played a very interesting game with about 4 ground squirrels
who were very brave and quite determined to steal our groceries.
That day we narrowly resisted the temptation to stop of at VVR (a hiker mecca and
purveyor of fine but expensive pies, we would have been doomed for sure) and made
our way to bear creek where we made a nice camp and I caught 4 trout. Needless to
say dinner was delicious.
Today we hiked over Seldon pass stopping on the north side for our first 10,000 ft.+
swim. It was cold and the wind was blowing which didn’t help but I Felt great
afterward to have shed the last few days worth of “stuff” coating my skin. From
Seldon pass we made our way passed stunning and fish laden heart lake and equally
beautiful Sally Keys Lake. The high Sierra just keeps getting more and more
spectacular the farther south we go.
Tonight we are camped on the south fork san Joaquin river. We just resupplied a Muir
Trail Ranch which is a fantastic place. The ranch is a 200 acre inholding in the
John Muir wilderness within in a few miles of the Kings Canyon NP boundary. They
rent the whole place out to a group of up to 20 for a week at at time. There are
cute log cabins, a natural hot spring, 2 hot tubs in addition, a large communal
kitchen, horses, mules, lounging areas, a massive San Joaquin river. It a place a
group of us have to get to some time. The best part is the access. Its a day hike to
Evolution Valley. Nuf said.
For us Muir Trail Ranch was a great resupply. While not the usual town sporting huge
meals and beer it had a wonderful down home feel to it. Pat, the cutest little lady
that works there was so sweet to us and made sure we had everything we needed. I
mean they haul our buckets up on horse. It give a big thumbs p to Muir Trail Ranch.
Now I’m siting here on the bank of the San Joaquin with a pack full of new food and
it’s time to eat!
Sati
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 38-50 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk5
Sati:
We found one of the most spectacularly beautiful places in all of the sierra today,
Evolution Basin. This place is like no where else on earth and it is hard to
describe it. Towering 14,000 foot peaks named for the great minds in evolutionary
biology towered grey over our camp at evolution lake. There is not a tree anywhere in
site. In fact the only plants around are small herbaceous flowers. In the midst of
this humongous grey environment are the blues clearest most pristine lakes you
could imagine. Evolution, Sapphire and Wanda lake spread wide across the basin. Our
guide book noted and I can concur that after you pass evolution lake there is not a
single piece of ground flat enough with few enough rocks for a person to make camp.
That’s many 1000s of acres of terrain.
Evolution Basin is definitely a must see place, you could not feel like you were in a
more remote place. At the top of the basin is Muir Pass and the Muir hut. The Muir
hut is a emergency shelter built by the sierra club at 12,000 feet. It is made
entirely from found rock and is complete with an igloo like dome roof. Quite a site
to see indeed. On the pass outside the hut you can see lake Wanda to the west and
lake helen to the east both lakes named by John muir for his daughters.
I could go on and on but it s really impossible to do a description of Evolution
Basin justice, you just have to see it!
Sati
Oh, and Evolution lake was loaded with fish of which I caught my share.
Photo editor’s note: All images from days 38-50 can be found at: http://www.xinet.com/tony/rol/disk5